Jinbaori: Everything you need to know about this samurai coat
Table of Content
What is Jinbaori
The Jinbaori is a type of short haori worn over samurai armor, similar to a surcoat or sleeveless vest. In Japanese, the name "Jinbaori" (陣羽織) is made up of two words: 陣 (jin), which generally refers to battle formations or military encampments, and 羽織 (haori), a traditional short jacket worn over a kimono. As the name suggests, Jinbaori (陣羽織) means "battle jacket."
The main practical purpose of the Jinbaori was to protect the armor from rain and cold winds, particularly during winter battles. Beyond its functionality, the Jinbaori was also a status symbol that reflected a samurai's power. High-ranking samurais often wore Jinbaori made of luxurious fabrics, embroidered with family crests or intricate designs on the back. Wearing such a lavish garment not only showcased wealth but also charisma, lower ranking samurai or Ashigaru don't wear Jinbaori at all.
Jinbaori were highly valuable garments often given as prestigious gifts. In 1587, Toyotomi Hideyoshi gifted a Jinbaori he had worn to the residents of Ōsumi Town (modern Fukuoka) as a reward for their support during the Kyushu campaign. Another story from the Tokugawa Jikki mentions Hideyoshi offering his Jinbaori to Tokugawa Ieyasu in an attempt to gain his loyalty, though some believe this was staged to boost Hideyoshi's prestige.
One of Hideyoshi’s most famous Jinbaori was crafted in Persia's Safavid court, woven with gold and silver, symbolizing wealth and power among samurai.
Material of Jinbaori
Since the Azuchi-Momoyama period, the fabric most commonly used for Jinbaori was "rasha" (羅紗), a type of woolen material created by felting the fibers through heat and pressure. Different weaving techniques, such as plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave, were used to produce rasha. This fabric was introduced to Japan through the Nanban trade and became popular due to its excellent heat retention and low thermal conductivity, making it ideal for use in Jinbaori and a variety of other items.
In addition to rasha, other luxurious fabrics like silk, "donsu" (緞子, a patterned silk fabric), and velvet were also used for making Jinbaori. These materials added an extra element of richness and status to the garment, reflecting the high rank of those who wore them.
History of Jinbaori
Starting from the Azuchi-Momoyama period, samurai started to wear Jinbaori over their armor. The major type of samurai armor at this time was tosei gusoku, that’s why Jinbaori was also known as gusoku baori 具足羽織 or jindobuku 陣胴服.
At this time, Jinbaori often had sleeves and resembled a traditional "hanten" coat. However, as the design evolved, sleeveless Jinbaori became more common, providing greater mobility on the battlefield. Some Jinbaori had large, wide sleeves, while others featured shorter sleeves similar to kosode, with decorative tamoto (sleeve drapes). Jinbaori came in both long and short styles; the longer ones sometimes featured a back-slit design called seware haori, which allowed warriors to comfortably wear a sword at the hip or ride a horse.
The Jinbaori worn by samurais during the Sengoku period were highly distinctive, reflecting each samurai’s personal taste. These garments came in a variety of styles, ranging from kimono-like haori to cloak-like designs. Many featured embroidered family crests or intricate artwork on the back, with fabrics showcasing bold, patterned weaves. Materials influenced by Nanban (Western) culture, such as rasha (wool), silk, and geometric patterns, were often used. The Jinbaori not only displayed a samurai's wealth to both allies and enemies but also served to highlight their charisma and commanding presence.
By the Edo period, Jinbaori became more ceremonial and decorative, with increasingly elaborate designs. However, by the late Edo period, they regained their functional purpose in battle, incorporating Western influences. Some Jinbaori featured shoulder decorations resembling epaulettes, while others had tubusode haori—a style with tubular sleeves—worn during Western-style military training, reflecting the evolving demands of warfare and fashion.
In the Edo period, Samurai often wore Jinbaori for various activities, including hunting, and it even became a favored garment for women who disguised themselves as men when venturing outside. However, its growing popularity among women eventually clashed with the societal norms of male superiority. As a result, the shogunate issued a formal ban on women wearing Jinbaori around the mid-Edo period (circa 1750s). This restriction remained in place until the Meiji period, when the ban was officially lifted.
Jinbaori Design & Pattern
Kisshō Mon'yō (吉祥文様): These auspicious patterns were often used on Jinbaori to bring good fortune and were highly valued for their symbolic meanings.
Kiku Botan Mon'yō (菊牡丹文様):
Kiku (Chrysanthemum): Symbolizing longevity, the chrysanthemum also represents mental and physical stability.
Botan (Peony): Known as the "King of Flowers," the peony stands for happiness, wealth, and nobility.
Chōjū Mon'yō (鳥獣文様): These patterns feature animals like frogs, rabbits, and monkeys, often personified in scenes of battle or play. Inspired by paintings, this style was particularly favored by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. These patterns were not only decorative but also carried significant symbolic meanings, adding depth to the design of the Jinbaori.
